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James Turner Street is probably the best known location in Birmingham. Forget Villa Park or the Bull Ring, this hitherto unrecognised stretch of rundown inner city tarmac played host to Channel 4's scandalously watchable Benefits Street. Millions tuned into what was effectively a real life soap opera masquerading as a documentary, and it made a star of White Dee - aka Deirdre Kelly - while leaving many residents feeling exploited and misrepresented.
Whatever your opinion of the programme it's probably fair to say that it didn't help property prices in and around the B18 postcode. The warmth and diversity of inner city life which the programme touched upon were overshadowed by the sense that this was a place with a transient population, where drugs and thieving are a way of life.
As if that wasn't enough, the area is dominated by the giant Winson Green Prison (officially known as HMP Birmingham) a forbidding Victorian nick. Let's face it, there aren't many jails situated in leafy suburbs and few people with a choice in life would choose to live next door to one.
All in all, then, a pretty unpromising place for a pub crawl? Well, that's what you might think, but a five bar tour of the area is curiously life affirming experience. This is a community where people still know how to have fun, and where strangers (like me and my mates on our regularly month booze cruise) were instantly made to feel welcome. Sometimes, it's just the small details - a favourite song, a free pool table - but whatever it was, these boozers, all within a mile or thereabouts of James Turner Street had something to commend them. And no, in case you're wondering, we didn't see Dee or any of her mates en route.
1) The Belle Vue (Icknield Port Road, B16 0AG)
In an age when pubs are being picked off like grouse on the Glorious 12th, it's great to see an old one being brought back to life. Like many inner city pubs in the West Midlands, this has Indian food on offer, but there's a nod at tradition too, with the old pub sign attached to the wall and postcards reflecting the area's history. There was a great trad reggae thing going on too - Janet Kay's "Silly Games" and Junior Murvin's "Police and Thieves". Nothing special in the beer department, and maybe a bit too brightly lit, but a decent start - both for this reborn boozer and our crawl.
2) The Bricklayers Arms (Icknield Port Road, B16 0DA)
Louder reggae this time with a blaring sound system. There were signs on the wall signposting you to another venue for "afters". The front bar was busy with locals watching or playing pool, but it started filling up in the lounge, too, while were there. Patties for £1.40 Again, the beer's nowt special but a friendly boozer.
3) Devonshire Arms (Lodge Road, B18 5DH)
Bit of a hike as you head across the Dudley Road and take a right after the prison. Again, another very diverse and friendly pub. Busy front bar, free pool in the back room and and an ageing West Indian woman out back cooking Jerk Chicken on what looks like a home barbecue. What's not to like?
4) New Soho Tavern (Park Road, B18 5SR)
Another one we never thought we'd see again, but this formerly decrepit spit n sawdust joint has been brought gloriously back to life as a curry pub. In case you haven't realised it yet, Sikh-owned food bars are the coming thing in the West Midlands, and this smart, spacious boozer with real ales and big widescreen tellies is a welcome addition. The kitchen in the corner serves terrific fresh food - go on, treat yourself to the fish pakora - and with various guest ales, including Doom Bar and Exmoor Gold, the beer's good too.
5) The Black Eagle (Factory Road, B18 5JU)
I don't pretend to be an expert, but I know good beer when I taste it - and they serve it here. Bathams, Holdens, Timmy Taylor's, all kept in decent fettle, and great traditional pub food in a classic Victorian/Edwardian interior. Simply one of the best pubs around.
Whatever your opinion of the programme it's probably fair to say that it didn't help property prices in and around the B18 postcode. The warmth and diversity of inner city life which the programme touched upon were overshadowed by the sense that this was a place with a transient population, where drugs and thieving are a way of life.
As if that wasn't enough, the area is dominated by the giant Winson Green Prison (officially known as HMP Birmingham) a forbidding Victorian nick. Let's face it, there aren't many jails situated in leafy suburbs and few people with a choice in life would choose to live next door to one.
All in all, then, a pretty unpromising place for a pub crawl? Well, that's what you might think, but a five bar tour of the area is curiously life affirming experience. This is a community where people still know how to have fun, and where strangers (like me and my mates on our regularly month booze cruise) were instantly made to feel welcome. Sometimes, it's just the small details - a favourite song, a free pool table - but whatever it was, these boozers, all within a mile or thereabouts of James Turner Street had something to commend them. And no, in case you're wondering, we didn't see Dee or any of her mates en route.
1) The Belle Vue (Icknield Port Road, B16 0AG)
In an age when pubs are being picked off like grouse on the Glorious 12th, it's great to see an old one being brought back to life. Like many inner city pubs in the West Midlands, this has Indian food on offer, but there's a nod at tradition too, with the old pub sign attached to the wall and postcards reflecting the area's history. There was a great trad reggae thing going on too - Janet Kay's "Silly Games" and Junior Murvin's "Police and Thieves". Nothing special in the beer department, and maybe a bit too brightly lit, but a decent start - both for this reborn boozer and our crawl.
2) The Bricklayers Arms (Icknield Port Road, B16 0DA)
Louder reggae this time with a blaring sound system. There were signs on the wall signposting you to another venue for "afters". The front bar was busy with locals watching or playing pool, but it started filling up in the lounge, too, while were there. Patties for £1.40 Again, the beer's nowt special but a friendly boozer.
3) Devonshire Arms (Lodge Road, B18 5DH)
Bit of a hike as you head across the Dudley Road and take a right after the prison. Again, another very diverse and friendly pub. Busy front bar, free pool in the back room and and an ageing West Indian woman out back cooking Jerk Chicken on what looks like a home barbecue. What's not to like?
4) New Soho Tavern (Park Road, B18 5SR)
Another one we never thought we'd see again, but this formerly decrepit spit n sawdust joint has been brought gloriously back to life as a curry pub. In case you haven't realised it yet, Sikh-owned food bars are the coming thing in the West Midlands, and this smart, spacious boozer with real ales and big widescreen tellies is a welcome addition. The kitchen in the corner serves terrific fresh food - go on, treat yourself to the fish pakora - and with various guest ales, including Doom Bar and Exmoor Gold, the beer's good too.
5) The Black Eagle (Factory Road, B18 5JU)
I don't pretend to be an expert, but I know good beer when I taste it - and they serve it here. Bathams, Holdens, Timmy Taylor's, all kept in decent fettle, and great traditional pub food in a classic Victorian/Edwardian interior. Simply one of the best pubs around.
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